On the forums, I have been chronicling the progress of a pair of Levi’s Shrink to Fit jeans that I’ve been wearing for about a year. In this article I hope to share as much of my experience with these jeans as possible, so I can answer some questions, give you real life details and perhaps some idea of what you can expect from your own pair of 501xx. I’ll cover the progress along the way with the steps I took, the wear and tear, and the washing process–with tips I’ve learned from all you.
A Year in the Making
I bought a pair of 31×38 501xx’s from Langstons and started wearing them on 1/29/09. I knew they would shrink vertically 2-3 inches — ending at 35-36″ — which would give me an about an inch or two for a cuff at the bottom. Here’s a picture of them before soaking with light wear, you can see that the cuff is quite long before the shrinking:
I decided I wanted to soak them on my honeymoon in Jamaica; my wife actually bought a pair as well and shrunk them with me. I got about two months of wear in them before the day of soaking 3/4/2009. Since I can’t wear jeans at work everyday, this was under 300 hours of wear. Here they are right before soaking, you can see they already look much more fitted and comfortable then the first picture:
Here they are right after soaking. We soaked for about 20 minutes in a private hot tub (which was really nice, btw):
I let them dry on me which didn’t take very long since we were outside in warm weather with the hot sun (maybe 5 hours max).
After that there hasn’t been much excitement in these jeans life for the last eleven months or so. I wore them on nights and weekends and DIDN’T wash them ever. For those keeping track, that means for over a year the only water that has touched my jeans has been the soak in Jamaica.
If this sounds gross to you, I really do understand. My original plan was to wear them without washing for maybe a month or two figuring that after that the smell would drive me to wash them. Carrying out this experiment really challenged my perceptions of this.
As long as you don’t get dirt on them, don’t do a lot of strenuous activity in them and — sorry if this is a bit vulgar — be sure to always wear underwear you can really go a very long time between washing. Even towards the end they were not offensive unless you held them close to your nose. If you have a partner, be sure to listen to them if they tell you enough is enough!
But more on washing later. Here are some progress photos taken at random intervals over the last year. First, about a month after soaking:
6/20/09 – about four months after soaking:
11/7/09 – About 8 months after initial soaking:
Like I said earlier since I’m just a nights and weekends jeans wearer we’re only talking like 230 hours per month. You can do your own quick calculation to get an idea of how to compare apples to apples with my pictures. Thirteen months is about 3000 hours which us to the pictures below which were taken before washing them for the first time (click for full size):
Wear and Tear
Since Levi’s switched to lighter weight denim the most common complaint I hear is the wear in the crotch. Without washing your clothes will wear quicker as well because of the grit you’re carrying around and rubbing into the fibers. Between the two you’re likely going to see some wear and tear and my pair was no exception but I have to say it wasn’t as bad as I was expecting.
Cuffs have the disadvantage of a weak “hem” at the end of the pant leg. The hem the jeans come with is double or triple thickness makes it stronger and less prone to wear. The cuff doesn’t give you that kind of protection so I did see a couple holes right on the crease of the cuff.
I did also have a couple points of noticeable wear in the crotch, one of which will likely need to be repaired within a few months of more wear. The top layer of jean on the inseam wore off in two places and there is one crease that looks like it will become a hole pretty soon. From my experience and reading about other’s, I think this is to be expected and is just an unfortunate reality of the decrease in workmanship and quality of materials we’ve seen across the entire brand. Here’s a detail of some of the damage, as you can see i got lucky and it will be relatively easy to repair especially with Denim Therapy‘s crotch and hem repair services:
Washing
Why wash ever? If you’ve gone this long why not continue wearing and getting a deeper fade and higher contrasts. First, as mentioned earlier, there is a balance between wearing out your clothes by washing too much, and having them wear out faster due to neglect. Also by this point, they were bagging in the seat and knees to a point where they were no longer looking that great — it was getting difficult to justify wearing them to casual Friday at work. There was also the smell and the general dingy appearance that comes with long wear. I held out but also knew when it was time.
Here was my approach to washing:
- Inside out
- Cold water (not extremely cold but not warm)
- Hand wash in the bathtub
- 1/4 Cup Dr. Bronners Classic Liquid Castile soap (peppermint)
- 1 Cup white vinegar
- 1 hour soak agitating every 20 minutes or so
- Rinse cold (not too much!)
- Air dry flat (remember to flip every now and then)
Finn watches:
The theory behind this approach was to minimize fading (cold water, vinegar, minimum of mild soap, hand wash) while getting full benefits of washing (removing dirt, reshaping the clothes). There are many many different approaches that also work well, here are some additional tips that have been reported to me:
- You can also substitute WOOLITE Dark as the soap
- If you use the washing machine, wash them alone, inside out, on cold and remove before the spin cycle for air drying
- Water, vinegar, and salt is another combination that will get good effects
- Washing in the (clean) ocean and rinsing with clear water will get the job done as well
For a review of jean care and achieving different fades see the Levi’s 501XX Shrink to Fit FAQ.
The End Results
After wash and thorough air dry, here were my results (click for full size):
Here they are on (with my new Fred Perry Kingston Mid Prince of Wales sneakers):
Honestly I couldn’t be more pleased with how they are coming along.
The critical steps are done so from here on out my plan is:
- Repair the damage by getting Denim Therapy to close the holes
- I’m going to put them in the regular rotation of jeans, so they will get less regular wear and last longer
- I will not wash often but also not wait another year for washing. Once they start sagging a lot in the knees and seat it will be time for a wash
I hope this was helpful experience. Going through this process and documenting it has only reinforced that this m is the choice for achieving the best fit and best fade possible. Please respond in the comments and on the forums with your own experiences so we can all learn and improve.
Ned, this is a great in-depth article about your 501XXs! You got an awesome contrast fade with the no-wash approach. Makes me wonder again why some choose LVC and even more expensive jeans as the stock STFs can achieve a silmilar result for much less money. It’s super you share your experience with us, thanks! You have a lovely cat, by the way.
Klaus, it’s true that if all someone wants is a great looking pair of naturally faded jeans that the entry level 501 STF’s will get the job done. The more premium denim lines are more about the quality of the denim than the fades (although they will get nice fades). I own some entry level 501′s and some of the higher end Levi’s, and the denim really is nicer for the premium lines.
Thanks Klaus, I was honestly surprised and thrilled by how well they came out. After the wash they became a bit rigid again as well which is a benefit of never washing the starch out in the first place. I brought them in to have the repair work done on the crotch and it set me back $15 which I was happy to pay.
I am wondering how long the starch stays in the fabric if you only hand-wash the jeans. Washed by machine it comes out after about a handfull of washes. I’m glad you had them repaired, it’s very comfortable to have a girlfriend who’s a tailor, this really makes things easy and cheap for me. 15 bucks sound quite a lot.
How did turn out your wife’s 501, I guess she washed them a little more often than you did, Ned?
They feel soft after wearing for a while so I was surprised that the starch was still there when I washed them. I’d imagine there will be some for quite a while.
Yes I’m jelous that you know a tailor so intimately! It does cost but getting it done right with backing and heavy stitching will likely add years to the life of the jeans.
My wife doesn’t wear her’s nearly as much as I wear mine, and you guessed correctly that she has washed them more than me! they still look quite dark and crisp. I would recommend washing inside out always even if you do it in the machine and line dry; otherwise you can get wierd lines and wrinkles in the color.
I agree with what you said in your article about wear and tear. With rigid material, there will be more stress at some points as the fabric cannot move freely, so holes will appear sooner. And of course the dirt particles will be abrasive, too, if not washed out.
I’ll submit this URL to Ruedi from the jeansmuseum, he’ll like your approach as he usually wears his jeans without washing, too.
Great you mentioned washing the jeans inside out, especially when using the machine. A lot of people don’t know this and then will have scarred and pinstriped jeans. I usually wash them inside out with a maximum temperature of 40°C (104°F), I might throw in a wash at 60°C (120°F) or a round of drying if the pair is on the loose side with a too long inseam.
Ned,
Pleased that you’re still into your STF 501s. I’ve had the same experience as you.
I bought a pair of STFs in 2006 and have never washed them. After about two years of wear, the crotch started to bust. This is a bit surprising cos they’re basically new jeans that were never washed and, no, I didn’t give them heavy wear.
At the monent, they’re hanging in my closet. Dirty, with the crotch busted. I don’t know what to do with them. For repairs, I use duct tape. This works for a while. I wouldn’t spend good money to have them repaired. You know that they’re just gonna bust out somewhere else.
Despite Levis Strauss producing a crap product, guys here in California still love they’re 501s. I just wish that they’d go back to using heavier denim.
In my case, I just can’t wear STFs for ANY heavy work. If I hike or ride my bike, or even walk a long way, I just know not to wear STF 501s. What a shame! I change into my Wrangler Cowboy Cut 936s. These are superior jeans that don’t bust out on you. I went on a camping trip last summer. Took two pairs of Wrangs, left the 501s at home. Had a gr8 time living in my Cowboy Cuts for almost two weeks. Came back with dirty jeans, but no tears or holes. I can’t risk taking STFs, cos they might rip.
Because STFs are so fragle, to preserve a few pairs of my fav 501s, in addition to avoiding heavy wear, I only hand wash in cool water and sun dry. I’ll try the salt and vinegar next time.
Ned, your worn out 501s, and your shoes are really hot. You can understand why guys still can’t give up on these jeans. BTW, STF 501s tend to “yellow” and really look grungy while the preshrunk stuff fades to light blue. Have no problem with beat up 501s. Please let us know how your 501s go in the final stages of their life cycle.
Tim, one option for the busted out jeans is to throw long johns underneath and use them for cold weather house jeans. Depending on the climate you’re in, the busted out house jeans can still go a winter or two before the hole(s) gets too big.
As a side note, I’d recommend Ibex Zepher http://www.ibexwear.com/shop/product/1707/8990/mens-zepher-long-johns wool bottoms; I’m wearing them now and can’t praise them enough (no more cotton long johns for me, Ibex made me a believer in wool).
Thanks for the great comment Tim! It really is frustrating that the denim is so thin that even light to moderate wear starts to cause damage in a year. If they didn’t look so good I’d jump ship in a minute. They really are just for looks and have lost all their roots as a work pant. I wish they would go back to something around 14oz denim as well.
I can totally see how a camping trip like that would totally rip up a pair of 501′s and I’m glad to hear the wrangles stood up to the challenge. We had an interesting question on the forums recently from a bike messenger who goes through jeans really quickly and no surprise that no one recommended 501′s as a work pant for him either.
I’ve hesitated on buying wranglers because the yolk is so high I’m not sure how I’d wear them with my style. They are cheap enough that I should just give it a try and it is comforting to know that my fellow denim enthusiasts like them as well.
I plan on following this pair to the end as well as buying a new pair that I wear raw and never soak to see how that works out as well. As for the yellowing, i noticed this as well. However after the gentle wash I gave them they looked much crisper and high higher contrast. Thanks for the great comment.
Those are some badass jeans,from a badass guy!
You’ve set the standard.
A fascinating and very detailed documentary into the life of your 501 STF jeans! I’m excited just reading about it and i can’t wait to go through the same process with my newly acquired 501 STF’s. I simply love the look of the denim in the “8 months after soaking” photo – that’s some pretty wicked wear lines you have behind the knee and in the crotch area. I suppose that is why it is so important to NOT wash your jeans otherwise you wouldn’t get that high contrast look. My plan is to wear the jeans brand new for as long as i can bear (MAYBE 1 month, i live in china and its filthy here) and then machine wash them, inside out (good tip), in cold water with just a little soap, a quick spin dry ( is that a good idea?) and then hang to dry. Once i get my jeans in hand (they are at a friends house at the moment who just brought them back from america) i will be able to provide more info about actual versus label measurements and i will keep you posted with the wear-in and washing results. Thanks Ned for your appreciation for detail, accuracy and taste in denim!
Thank you Dave and Kane for your comments! Be sure to come back and comment on your own experiences and post pictures in the forums.
**First of all, i stumbled across your website AFTER i made my order with my friend to buy the jeans.
Well, i picked up my jeans from my friends house two nights ago and i am just so thrilled with these rad pants! I can’t believe how perfect they are!! Its been about 22 years since my last pair of 501 STF and i have NO IDEA why i waited so long to get back on the cool train. In Canada they were/are not that popular due to lack of availability.
1. My jeans were bought in Steamboat Springs, CO at some family run western shop for $46 (he paid too much, i know). How much are they normally?
2. Label measurements are W33 L31 (when i first saw this i thought they would be way too short–Im 5’8”). They are the 2008 model(no XX on the tag), made in Haiti.
3.The actual measurements are W 35.0″ (2″ larger than they should be–lame–why do they do this??) and L31.1″ (bang on). From what i have heard from others it sounds like there is very little consistency with the sizes. That is why it is important that you try the jeans on in the store to ensure the perfect fit (good tip on buying a jean AT your waist size). My waist measurement is 33″ and i find that these jeans, in their unshrunken state, to be baggy but not too much and the ‘oversize’ look is 50′s cool. As it turns out the L is perfect( i like my pants a bit on the short side) and i am currently wearing them(with my black, side zip boots) turned up 3″. These jeans have a really long rise which i just love and is so anti trendy at the moment.
4. I will take your advice on the shrinking process and soak them in a tub for 15-20 min and then gently hang them to dry rather than wash them in the machine and then spin dry. Im gonna use cold water though since i want as much of the dye to remain in as possible and i dont mind if they dont shrink that much.
5.The next pair i buy will be W31 L32(no cuff) and/or W31 L34(cuffed), based on the sizing of my current pants.
To say i am excited is an understatement and right now i feel like the coolest dude in Harbin in my Levis 501 STF’s! Ha!
Well, i didnt jump into a lake with my jeans on but i did soak them two days ago. I was planning to wear them unshrunk for a while but i only lasted 4 days before i lost my patience and was eager to shrink them down. And shrink down did they ever – wow, these 501 STF’s completely transform after a good soaking, even in cold water.
1. Before soaking my STF’s, the measured W was 35.0″, the R outseam was 106.7cm and the L outseam was 106.4cm.
2. Soaked ‘em for 22 min in cold water, inside in.
3. Layed them over the toilet to dry.
4. Post soak measurements: W – 33.3″, R outseam – 100.3cm, L outseam – 100.4cm
5. Shrinkage: W – 1.7″, R outseam – 2.52″, L outseam – 2.36″
I am delighted with the results and everything went as expected but one has to wonder if these pants are made from cotton or cardboard – man, are they stiff !(luv it!). The length is now almost perfect, they are on the short side but i like them that way and the W is still a bit big but i dont mind a looser fitting jean. The next pair i buy will be at least 1″ longer and the W, 1″ or 2″ less. I now plan to wear them as long as possible – maybe 500+ hours, without washing(I dont think i can go the 2500+ hrs you did with your One Year Jeans, Ned! – that’s quite a feat). Can’t wait to start seeing those high contrast wear lines and tres cool natural fade spots! Levi’s 501 STF’s are the best jeans on the planet! : )
I’m 29 yrs old and have never owned a pair of STF’s. Finally got my hands on some 32×36 and took a dip in my tub. The jeans came out pretty good. We seem to be about the same size so I ordered me some 31×38 for a snug fit and some cuff action. My question is wont taking a dip in a pool with chlorine or hot tub (as you did) bleach the denim?
I have a similar pair that after 6 months they are finally offering the fit I want. BUT today is a rainy, blustery day in Iowa and I needed a pick-me-up so I got out a pair of stfs that I over shrunk and were my actual size when I boutght them – just to see how they would perform. They are tight, but I got them on and they really look and feel great and continue to streatch as I wear them this A.M. By noon they should be my hottest pair – well fitting ass, crotch and waist and with my 3 inch leather belt – it brings everything together. I probably can’t wear these to work, but out and about and certaianly at home they are the best, and make me feel good.
The bottom line: I will buy actual size for some occasions and the larger sizes fot my work jeans, with my white shirt open collar and sport jacket – my work costume.
Hey I was just wandering around the web and found your site, definitely glad I did because it had some of the information I was looking for for a report for school, thanks a mil.
Ned, I was wondering whether you or maybe any of your readers have noticed a significant difference between the regular STF 501′s and the selvedge STF 501′s. At about $100 a pair, the selvedge coem at a premium. How do they compare. By the way, awesome blog.
Thanks Charlie! Personnally I don’t have experience with the lvc series. I’m note sure whether they are that much higher quality. I guess from my reading I haven’t seen a compelling reason to go that route. I just have a feeling they won’t last considerably longer despite the higher price tag. I’d recommend if possible you get to a levis store to compare. Good luck!
Charlie, I have a pair of the $100 (that’s retail but they frequently go on sale) 501 STFs and the quality is certainly higher. Imagine the standard 501′s as a McDonald’s burger and the selvedge 501′s as something from a steakhouse (think Outback Steakhouse, not some 4/5 – star joint where you’re seated next to the Trumps). If all you’ve ever known is the beef (and I use that term loosely) from the Golden Arches, you really don’t know what you’re missing.
The 501 selvedge is worth it at the sale price of 30% off (sometimes 40%) and free shipping; I don’t think they’re $100 jeans. I have high(er) end Levis selvedge in various models (e.g. 514) and I think the cost increase is justified. Again, that’s justified if you get them at the $60-70 sale price.
I don’t recommend anyone go for the higher end STFs until you’ve experimented with some test runs on entry level 501s.
I saw your web blog via msn the other day and absolutely think its great. Continue this fantastic work.
I’m kind of amazed at the level of fading you’ve experienced as it differs so greatly from my own. My current pair have been worn daily (and are basically the only pair of pants I own at the moment) for a year or so with a single wash (handwashed, cold water, Woolite dark) and haven’t really faded at all. The only exception being some faint fading at the knees.
Belgand, I think the fades come more from a washing machine. The whole handwashing thing is really more for the initial soak, as it shrinks the denim while removing a minimal amount of dye. A washing machine will remove more dye resulting in greater contrast with faded areas. Perhaps if you ran your jeans through the washer you’d have greater fades. I’m no expert on the matter and would love for more knowledgeable denimheads to chime in on this.
so i was just curious about one thing… When the crotch has excessive bulging is that a sign of an ill fit or rather subpar materials??? I have a pair of japanese raw denim which is stated to be of higher calibre but after a couple of wears the crotch bulged out. Wuld the same shrinking process be useful in this case, as it is still a raw pair of denim?
Thanks!
Ps awesome blog really helpful and amazing how fabricating a personal look can be so damn cool
What is your opinion about the dry cleaning
Hey I was wondering what color of 501 jeans you got, was it just the original indigo?
Your site may be the first step in the blue jean washing revolution. After the Times article today, I’d guess your site will start to influence many of us!
I’ve worn the same A.P.C. jeans for over 12 years now –
Denim Washing Recipes from APC
1. Extremist Recipe: Let your jeans get dirty for as long as possible. First wash: dry clean. Following washes: soak your jeans for about an hour in water with a little Woolite Black added, rinse, roll in a terrycloth towel and hang up to dry.
(I followed this – AWESOME results!)
2. Semi-Extremist Recipe: Soak your jeans for about an hour in water with Woolite Black added, don’t scrub, rinse, wring and hang up to let the water drain.
3. Machine Recipe: Machine wash at 30 degrees Celsius (90 degrees Fahrenheit), delicate cycle, no spin cycle, with Woolite Black.
4. Seawater Recipe: Let your jeans get dirty for as long as possible, go swimming in the ocean wearing your jeans, rub your jeans with dry sand, and repeat several times, rinse in fresh (not salt) water and let dry in the sun. (Excellent too!)
I’d love more info on you wife’s jeans!
I normally wear a 33-34″ inseam on jeans, so I assume I’d need a 36 in 501s. However the waist/fit has me concerned. It’s always difficult translating men to women’s sizing, but I’m not sure if I can get them to work for me as 29″ waist is the smallest I’ve found and I wear a 4/6 (27/28) in women’s jeans. Plus the rise looks huge!!
Please, I can’t seem to find any female experiences!
I’m recently discovered the “Rustler” rigid boot cut jeans by Wrangler that pretty much comes very close to my favorite older higher rise version of 501′s. Super cheap on Walmart website ( $10 ). I just bought another 2 pairs that I will be experimenting with..
The denim is exactly the way I remember from late 70′s – early 80′s.
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